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01/12/2004: "Kandahar Chronicles #55 - 10/01/2004"

I’ve been neglecting some great emails I’ve been getting over the last few weeks, and with the city momentarily quiet the last forty eight hours, (only one blast and an attack on an American base- repulsed) I’ll try to get to them now. Sorry this is a bit late, especially for those people on their way here.

Ashok, There’s no special threats towards foreign diplomats that aren’t faced by all of us right now. Kandahar is a tough place and there have been ambushes and kidnappings recently. Two Indian engineers, among others, have spent a few days as guests of the Taliban but were released unharmed. If you do come out as a member of the Indian Consular delegation, you can be sure that they will have very tight security procedures. The private sector as well has security procedures and many of the people involved in rebuilding Afghanistan’s roads works under the watchful eye of armed guards. One of the biggest threats is just being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Chris, you’re coming to Kandahar to work in the NGO community here? Are you nuts? I’ll give you some advice I was given, grow your hair, a beard, and get yourself some Kevlar boxer shorts. There’s lots of good work that needs to be done here but things are f-------g tense. If your biggest concern is the nature of the weather then you are perfect for the place. It gets cold for a few days (below freezing some nights) and then will warm up and be very pleasant. Be warned, the worst of winter is almost over and the rain (Inshallah) will be falling soon. Then there will be a warm spring before the weather starts getting stinking hot by late April- May. Drop by when you get in.

Nadir, If you look Afghan and speak Pashto there’s not too much problem security wise coming overland from Quetta. It’s a bumpy two hour ride from the border at Spin Boldak to Kandahar but easy to catch shared taxis. I think this response is a bit late as you said you were coming around Christmas time. Listen to your relatives (?) about where to go and not go and enjoy yourself. Despite everything happening here, it is a fantastic place. Health issues, hmmm, get all your shots before you leave home and wear a sharwol camise.

Anna, I see Canadian soldiers when I visit Kabul but as they are part of ISAF, they don’t stray too far from the capital. They’re nice to talk to about home and I almost got a frozen turkey off them for Christmas before we decided to pull out. However, we don’t work with any military forces whatsoever. MSF is very sensitive about preserving its neutrality and will not accept armed guards, or any other assistance from military, that might compromise that position. I’m on my first mission with MSF after years spent travelling the world in the adventure travel business. I became involved with MSF because of your Prof deciding to introduce me to the former president of MSF International after I became disgruntled with the dead end job I was doing. I had read about MSF, and had friends work for them in the past, but had not considered a contract with them until that fateful day. Instead, I would probably be instructing scuba diving on some sun-drenched beach in paradise. He’s buying the beer when I get back.

Alex, excellent question concerning women in Afghanistan but I’m not going to answer it here, but rather make a separate entry after I’ve had a chance to talk with one of the ladies working for us. I’ve wanted to write about it for a while now but keep putting it off to write about bombs instead. I’ll see her at the hospital in the next couple of days and see how much I can get her to open up. Her English is excellent and she’s very chatty, but I am still a man and that might inhibit her a bit.

Mrs Scallywag, thanks, I’ll be careful.